Constant Euphoria

Constant Euphoria

::You see it from afar, small yet so beautiful…so long and peaceful. As it approaches it gets bigger and louder but just as mesmerizing. Your heart races and your smile fades as you paddle out to meet it. Whatever was on your mind seconds before disappear, and concentration takes over your face. You turn, lay down, and paddle with all your might. You feel the rush through your body, all your muscles tense. You feel it at first as your legs raise, and all at once you fly forward and down the face with such great speed and grace. Your smile then remembers where it was a few seconds ago, as your body starts to relax and you slide down the face of the water, reaching out and touching its side…the wind blowing a cool mist in your face. Your body is in complete sync with the ocean as you carve up and down laughing the whole way. Your heart rips with love and passion as you take the wave or it takes you….either way is pure bliss::

My name is Victoria. I am an aquaholic. I have loved the sea for as long as I can remember.

Unfortunately, I only picked up my first surf board when I was 19, but I grew up living near the ocean so I was always in the water swimming around, dodging waves.

Believe it or not, growing up I was actually a land locked, ball athlete. I played highly competitive softball my entire life as a pitcher, and on the side supplemented it with soccer, volleyball, basketball, waterpolo and heck I even did karate and was in colorguard! Hence where my ADD probably came from, always doing a million things at once since I was young.

After high school I started competing in triathlons, working on dive boats, and pursing my career as a firefighter/paramedic. I got hired at a ripe age of 20. The firefighter schedule, as many know, is 24 hours on and 48 hours off, which leaves much free time, and it is when I started to realize my deep rooted love of the ocean.

I became active in Trespass Surf Club where we started Surfers for Autism and was involved in starting the Broward County Surfrider chapter in the Surfrider Foundation. I got my first 10’2 Hobie log and took her out in every condition because I was determined and in love.

My passion had been ignited.

From then on, I will never be the same again.

You see- surfing is the best drug you could ever be on. When you are out there, you become completely humbled and absolutely stoked every single time you step foot in the ocean by mother nature and her power and grace.

You learn not to fight but to go with the flow. When your world is crowded with noise, you just paddle out and it becomes silent.

You see surfing, when you are paddling for that wave, even if only for 10 seconds, everything disappears and you become numb with euphoria and the purity of the moment...

Surfing is my drug…it has made my life constant bliss.

My name is Victoria and I’m an aquaholic.

Welcome to my journey of surf, life and everything in between


© 2015 by Victoria Burgess

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